Luckily, Diane von Furstenberg isn’t one to crack under pressure. Between settling into her already proactive CFDA presidency and the fact that she’s knee-deep in the delayed renovation of her new headquarters, she’s had a lot going on that might have distracted her from her day job. Rather, her charming show on Sunday indicated that the increased workload suits her. But then, she did dub the collection “La Movida!”

Von Furstenberg worked a Spanish inspiration — a flash of Gaudí here, a toreador flourish there. The result was a typically savvy fusion of the sensual and the sensible, but with a notable upgrade to the sophistication level, starting with the palette. While she hardly abandoned color and prints, von Furstenberg gave in to the lure of black like never before. This put the focus on the shape of the clothes, highlighting the deft balancing act she maintained throughout: girlish froth countered by adult restraint; fluidity by structure; embellishment by simplicity. A fluffy taffeta party dress found a counterpoint in an utterly chic V-neck shift; structured jersey toppers, in a poetic tiered leather coat. And sometimes, the contrast came in a single look, as when a cozy cardigan coat tempered the sweetness of a little lacy cocktail frock.

Color came in Miró-inspired prints and festive dresses, including a snappy wrap dress in red with a matador ruffle. Because while von Furstenberg is the very personification of la movida, she would be foolish to move too far from her roots.


To view Diane von Furstenberg's full collection click here.