With his recent appointment as creative director of Tod’s, all eyes are on Derek Lam. Now more than ever, he needs to find a strong identity for his own collection.

But Tuesday’s showing proved that this is still a work in progress, as Lam freely referenced tough-girl chic from other designers, perhaps too literally. Lam’s genius is in American sportswear with a pretty, playful polish, one that’s earned him recognition thus far, but an about-face standpoint only mixes up his message.

Lam did deliver on a few looks, though, like a terrific tailored plaid jacket with navy sleeves. But working with a Frank Gehry-inspired architectural motif, he added too many tricky details — wayward stitching and trailing zippers — that distracted. If Lam wants to lead his girl toward edgier territories, he needs to find his own voice with which to do it.


To view Derek Lam's full collection click here.